![]() ![]() The fourth photo shows in red the cuts necessary for both the king post base and for the center top of the tie beam. We chose to make a 3 inch deep notch in the tie beam for the king post to sit in. Now we had a full-size sketch of the intersection of the king post and the tie beam. Repeating that for the king post was the next step. We then snapped chalk lines to show, in general, where the log surface would fall. Using half of the butt diameter we marked on our template one half of the height on either side of our center line. Note that the center does not necessarily end up in the center of the grain. Once we knew which side was "up" we marked the ends of the log with markings to show the "center" of it. We also marked where the rafter was to intersect the tie beam as well as the point where the rafter would project to connect with the other rafter on the top.Įach log was checked to see how it would be used on the site - checking for bow or sweep (although our logs were in really good shape because they were selected for this purpose). We marked a center line for the tie log and a center line for the king post. We purchased a number of 1/4 inch sheets of plywood and tacked them together covering a large enough area to actually sketch out each truss using the logs we had available. And with the variable diameter of the king posts, tie beams and rafters no calculations were going to hold true from one truss to the next. It was just some trig and we knew the length for the rafters.īut we couldn't just cut the rafters to length. In order to achieve that, we knew the length of the apex and the length of the tie beam span. Avoiding having to notch or shim these would make the roof much more level of a surface. We planned on spiking in 4x4 s for the plywood sheathing. Ideally, the outer edge of the rafters should be consistent. (See the notes in the photo.)īut with all the different sizes of logs we knew we needed a few constants. And finally, we wanted smaller "struts" to connect about the mid-point of the rafter to the tie beam. And two rafters that connected the king post to the ends of the tie beam. We also decided to have the roof peak at 5 feet above the tie beam. So we needed a minimum of 24 foot long "tie beams". We decided to have an additional 2 feet on either end for some overhang (see the reason we had for this replacement). We knew we needed the trusses to span about 20 feet. The logs we had to work with varied in diameter from 18 inches to about 8. We had six roof trusses to build for out shelter. You might want to mark where these are so you don't drill into them when doing higher logs.Īs I said, many volumes have been written on different ways to build a log structure. Using a long auger bit and a powerful drill, drill through two logs that are stacked and then drive in a piece of 1 inch rebar or pipe. Successive layers should have the bottom of the log marked lengthwise and have a groove cut the entire length. The bottom course of logs needs to be drilled from the bottom to receive the metal posts. Use an axe or adz to remove the material and then chisels or the chainsaw to clean the cut. With a chainsaw and a partner to spot the far side, cut a series of parallel cuts to the depth marked by the scribing tool. Then keeping the scribing tool level and perpendicular to the existing log, trace the contour for the cut onto the top log. ![]() Measure the distance that the log is above where you want it to be. In our case, using a machine with forks and the log chained in place worked very well. Line up a log, sit it on top of where it will be and then level it as best you can. Having a freshly sharpened chain and an adequately powered chainsaw will help a lot with the milling. A notch was cut to saddle the second tier of concrete. The first course of logs were planed off to sit level on the lowest level of concrete footing. Alternate the butt ends and the top ends. Start out with the largest diameter logs on the bottom. However, by doing this job "in-house" we had significant savings and were able to contract that out later. The initial plan was to apply for additional grant funding for reconstruction of the chimney. The chimney was initially left in place and worked around. Some of the logs were used for constructing sills to work on the new logs. Parts of the roof were saved for another project. In that reconstruction they replaced the lower logs with concrete which helped eliminate the rotting of the lowest logs.Īside from that the shelter was disassembled. ![]() In the 1970's the walls of the shelter were rebuilt.
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